Replacing the Windows

It has been a busy summer, so I’m not catching up on the blog posts!  This was from a few months ago, sorry!

The windows in Hurry On upon receipt were a sight.  Fogged, cracked, and keeping very little water out.  They needed replacement.  When I started this blog I hoped it would be a useful resource to those in the same figurative boat as myself, and perhaps some useful ‘how-to’s here and there.  I didn’t think of it at the time, but my mistakes, and false assumptions, may also provide a valuable insight; A ‘how-not-to’ if you will.

The following is a ‘how-not-to’.

The windows on Indy were nice, small, with easy to manage aluminum frames.  Hurry on, and all C&C 27 Mk5s are what are known as ‘floating’  They are basically held in place by adhesive only.  A number of owners I had read about used screws to hold them in, but I decided to go the purist route.  According to common convention one of the most important bits of this job is getting the surface clean.  This was the worst part of the job.  The old adhesive was like concrete, which couldn’t be scraped, or cut away, and was very stubborn when met with a palm sander.  I finally borrowed a Dremel-style rotary tool, and the powerful little sanding drum chewed through the old stuff, but it was still a very laborious task, and the drum ate through fiberglass just as easily as the hard glue, probably easier.


window openning

The opening with the glass out. The old adhesive, as well as some old caulking

After the openings were cleaned out the area around the window was masked with frog tape.  I love that tape.



I had new pieces of Lexan cut out at Island Auto Glass using the old windows as a template, although beveled the edge myself.  This was easily done with a hand router and a 45° bit.

I should mention that up until this point, I think everything was done correctly.

I read about many people singing the praises of Sikaflex 295UV so this is what I went with.

MISTAKE 1 – This is a two part system.  Sikafex requires a very expensive primer which in my infinite wisdom decided not to use.

Whenever my brother is in town visiting, I always put him to work.  I got him to rough up the edges of the Lexan.

MISTAKE 2I got him to pretty much take some sand paper and basically take the shine off the edge.  I now realize the sticking power would have been greatly increased, had we done a proper roughing up with a rasp.

Ray deftly cutting the plastic edge off

Ray deftly cutting the plastic edge off

I filled the frame with goo, and stuck the panes in.  Then the mechanical supports were put in place which were pieces of 2X4 strategically notched and angled. They were then weighted down with sand from the kids’ sandbox.


When someone is going to be taking pics of a project you are working on, I can not stress the importance of wearing a belt.

I then took my finger and wiped off all the excess from the outside, Ray got the inside.


MISTAKE 3 – I removed the supports after a few hours.  I really should have let it cure while supported for a few days.

I’m not going to lie, after the clean up, the new windows looked goddamned incredible.

It was less than a week, I could see air pockets starting to form.  The real bugger about windows from the C&C27 Mk5 is that they are curved, not straight.  So the forward and aft sides are constantly trying top pull away from the corners.  After a few months (tonight) I went ahead and screwed them in, admitting defeat.


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